How to change the rear brake pads on a 2012 Land Rover LR4

Things you'll need and links to recomended products:

• A screw driver (not a tiny one): TEKTON 2757 Mechanic's Screwdriver Set
• A 17 mm thin wrench: 9 pc Piece Super Thin Wrench Set MM
• A 3/8 ratchet: Stanley 91-929 3/8-Inch Drive Pear Head Quick Release Ratchet
• A 13mm 3/8 socket: TEKTON 1815 3/8" Drive Socket Set, 8-19mm, Metric, 12 Sockets
• Brake fluid: Castrol GT LMA Brake Fluid - 12oz. 12502
• Brake Pads (I used factory Land Rover but there are cheaper options like the link --> ): ACDelco 17D1099M Professional Durastop Rear Semi-Metallic Disc Brake Pad Set

• A 1/2 inch breaker bar:  TEKTON 1702 1/2-Inch Drive x 16-Inch Flex Breaker Bar
• A 7/8 socket 1/2 drive: TEKTON 14250 1/2-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch Deep Socket, 6-Point
• Gloves (optional but recommended): Custom Leathercraft 125M Handyman Flex Grip Work Gloves, Medium
• Brake pad wear sensor: Centric Parts 116.22004 Brake Pad Sensor Wire
• Brake grease: Permatex 24124 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, Two 4 g Pouches

Procedure:

• First of all, crack the lug nuts, then jack up the car, place some jack stands (safety first!) and remove the rear wheels.
• If your brake fluid reservoir is low, then good! If your reservoir is full or close to full, then you have to remove some of the brake fluid. This can be done with a turkey baster. 
• I started with the right side: with the thin wrench, the 3/8 ratchet and the 13mm socket crack the bolts holding the caliper in place. The pic shows where to put the thin wrench.

• With the bolts now removed, pull the sensor like in the pic show, this will most likely destroy the sensor but you got a new one. This step does not apply to the side without the sensor.

• With the sensor out of the way, pry the pad all the way back with the biggest screw driver.

• It should look like this with the pad completely retracted:

• Now remove the caliper, you can use your screw driver if it's stuck. And remove the pads.

• Remove the old clips and replace them with new ones (if your brake pad set came with new clips, if it didn't skip this step.)

• This step is often skipped, but you are smart like me so you are going to grease the contact points between the pads and the clips. 

• Put the pads in place. See what my hand is doing? I'm checking the slide pins to make sure none of them are stuck. The should have some give. If they are completely frozen you have to pull them out with your hand, put a little bit of that brake grease and push them back. You should do this for both the bottom and the top.

• Catch the new bolts that came with your pads (if there are new bolts if not use the old ones) WITH YOUR HAND.

• After hand tighting them as much as possible, tighten them with your ratchet. They should be tight enough but don't break the bolt!

• Now to the sensor, the way I do it so there is no confusion is I unclip the old sensor and clip the new one, then I unclip it at the second point and clip the new one. In other words, I'm sort of "following the sensor". You'll see with the pics.
• Unclip the sensor at the first point (that's the bleed screw), abd clip the new one.

• Unclip it at the second point, and clip the new one:

• Now the third point:

• The next point, is really close to the third: 

• All the way back there is the next point.

• Now you have to stick your hand back there and unplug the old sensor, its also caught with a push pin I pull it carefully out of there. But you have to feel, you can't really see it. When you get the old one disconnected plug the new one in place right away.
• Clip the sensor to the pad with your hand carefully, otherwise you'll break it and you have to buy a new one.

• Now do the other side! Just repeat the steps!
• When you are done, refill your reservoir. Then pump your brake pedal until it's hard. Then recheck the reservoir again. Drive slowly at first and allow the new pads to settle in the old rotors.

Any questions? Comment!