How to change the fuel pump on your Land Rover LR2

Here is a step by step guide in how to change the Fuel pump on your Land Rover LR2. The problem with this particular car was that it would take it a while to start in the morning, but after the first start it would always start right away. The problem was that the check valve at the fuel pump went bad and was allowing the fuel in the line that goes from the back of the car to the fuel rail to drain. The problem is that the pump is sold as a unit with the filter. The part number for the pump assembly is LR038599 as of today (11/6/14).

I urge you to buy this two products to make things a lot easier:

To spray the exhaust mounts: 3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type) - 8.5 oz.
To spray the exhaust bolts: Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11 oz.

Here is the procedure:

First you have to remove the little plastic cover by the rear seats. This will give you access to the parking brake nut.

Then remove the parking brake nut, make note of how many threads to put it exactly where you found it. Then remove the cables from the metal plate. You will be pulling the cables from the bottom of the car later.

Now you need to move the rear passenger seat forward to get access to the fuel pump connectors.

Lift the carpet up and remove the plastic cover.

Remove the vent connector and unplug the wire.

Jack up the car. Remember always to set the car in Jack stands, never work on a car only supported by a Jack. Now you need to remove the rubber mounts for the exhaust. There are four of them, two on the passenger side at the back, one in the driver's side at the back, and one by the middle of the car.

Now spray the bolts for the exhaust with some rost off and remove them. They are 13 mm bolts.

With the help of a buddy remove the exhaust. Make sure you are placing all your bolts neatly.



Now it's time to undo the driveshaft bolts. They are inverse torx E10. They have locktite so they are a pain... Before removing them make sure you mark the position of the driveshaft with respect to the flange. This is to put it back the same way and avoid vibrations.

Here is a pic of the other side of the driveshaft.

Then you need to remove the two brakets that hold the driveshaft. Each one has 4 bolts. The rear braket has two more bolts that hold the tank braket remove it. Don't worry the tank won't fall as it's being held in place by the other bolts.

Then with the help of your buddy remove the driveshaft.
There is an 8 mm bolt that holds the filler neck in place remove it.

Loosen the clamp for the filler neck at the tank.

Pull the filler neck off the tank and clear out of the way.

Now unclip the parking brake lines (each one is clipped in like three places) and pull them. Put them out of the way.

Now you need to remove the fuel line cover. And then undo the fuel line. You have to pull the yello clip down.

Now the tank is ready to come down. You have four bolts left holding the tank in place. I would put a Jack with a big piece of wood to hold it in place and then take out the bolts in the pics. Then slowly lower the jack. You are going to have to tilt the pain in the behind tank to clear the differential.

With the help of your buddy place the tank somewhere easy to work.

Remove the flat head plastic nuts.

 Remove the sterofoam.

With a BRASS punch remove the metal holder. Use brass you don't want to create sparks close to the fuel tank. Use safety goggles!!!

Take the metal holder out and pull the white plastic. Is only going to move slightly. You need to disconnect the vent hose and then it becomes much easier to work with. then you have to undo some connectors. to remove the filter. (The filter is the top assembly)

To remove the pump itself you have to twist it and then pull it up and out.

Here is a photo of the new pump assembly.

Here is the part number for the pump assembly.

Reverse procedure to install!